October is apple month. Orchards are in the middle of the main harvest, farmers’ markets are stacked with crates of crisp, tart and honey-sweet varieties, and many people suddenly find themselves with a bag of windfalls from a neighbour’s tree. It is the perfect moment to cook with apples more often, because they are at their most flavourful, most affordable and most local right now.
The good news is that apples do not ask for much skill. They forgive a rough chop, they work in sweet and savoury dishes, and they turn an ordinary weeknight meal into something that tastes like autumn. Here is how to make the most of the season without spending your evenings peeling.
Which apples should you buy for which dish?
A simple rule helps: firm, slightly tart apples hold their shape in the oven, while softer, sweeter ones collapse into a smooth purée. For tarts, baked apples and roasting trays, look for varieties that stay crisp when you bite them and have a clear acidity. For sauce, compote and soups, softer and more aromatic apples are ideal, because you want them to fall apart. If you are unsure, ask at the market stall. Growers usually love explaining which of their apples are “for baking” and which are “for eating”, and many will let you taste a slice.
Mixing two varieties is a small trick with a big effect. A tart apple brings brightness, a sweet one brings body, and together they give a sauce or crumble more depth than either could alone.
Five easy ways to use the harvest
1. A quick stovetop compote. Chop apples without peeling, add a splash of water, a little lemon juice and a pinch of cinnamon, and simmer for ten to fifteen minutes. Spoon it over porridge, yogurt or pancakes. It keeps for several days in the fridge.
2. A one-tray roast. Apple wedges, red onion, root vegetables and a few sprigs of thyme roast beautifully together. Add sausages, chickpeas or chunks of squash, and dinner is done with almost no washing up.
3. A crumble for busy people. Rub butter, flour, oats and a little sugar together until it looks like rough sand, scatter it over sliced apples in a dish and bake until golden. It is forgiving, quick and always welcome.
4. A crunchy autumn salad. Thin apple slices with leafy greens, toasted walnuts and a sharp cheese make a fresh contrast to heavier seasonal meals. A dressing of mustard, honey and vinegar ties everything together.
5. Homemade applesauce for the freezer. Cook a larger batch, let it cool and freeze it in small portions. In January, a spoonful of this autumn sunshine is a real treat.
Storing apples so they last
Apples keep best somewhere cool, dark and slightly humid, such as a cellar, a garage that does not freeze or the vegetable drawer of the fridge. Store them away from other produce, because ripening apples release a gas that speeds up softening in nearby fruit and vegetables. Check the pile every week and use any bruised ones first, since one spoiled apple can quickly affect its neighbours.
Cooking with the season is one of the simplest pleasures of autumn. A bag of apples, a sharp knife and twenty minutes are enough to fill the kitchen with a warm, sweet smell that tells everyone the year has turned.
